The AFM Remake (AFMr) built on the legacy of the original AFM, but with many changes/upgrades to the lighting (now LED!) and boardset/electronics. Building a kit for this game was challenging, in that I don't own one, so I had to rely on the generosity of nearby collectors. The original game had an unused mounting section, so I included hardware to install my board(s) there. AFMr does not have any such section, so we will be installing the boards into the unused wood section above the metal backplane, where the standard boards are installed.
As I have researched AFMr, I find that there are some differences with how things are connected in the backbox. There is also some variation on the backglass wiring layout.
For the power connector, I am using an open header located in the lower left corner of the Pinball Controller board. Sometimes there is something plugged in here, but other ports in the backbox are free. Please let me know if this header is already in use on your game.
There is a similar header on the Solenoid Board, toward the left side near the middle, marked "DISPLAY". Some games may have been assembled differently? I don't know why it would vary. If this connection is open, we can use it instead for power.
If both are in use, let me know as I'll have to send you a power splitter.
This is what the "light tub" wiring looks like for the Backbox General Illumination (GI) upgrades. There is one Purple General Illumination (GI) connection, and (surprise!) two Green GI connections. The main Green GI connection is closest to the Purple GI connection (middle of the pic). The other Green GI connection is usually nearby (approx 2 inches), but sometimes there are games where the second Green GI connection is further away. Again, I do not know why there are variations, but if your game has the two Green GI connections located further than 2 inches apart, send me the distance between the two connections, and I'll send you a proper cord.
Please send me an Email with the above information, so I can assemble the proper components for your kit(s).
For installation of the boards, you should have a phillips head screwdriver, and a small drill (bit) to create pilot holes in the wood. A power screwdriver with interchangable bits probably works best.
For running wires, it's often easiest to have a chopstick or skewer stick handy. Something long, slim, and unlikely to scratch any playfield parts.
Finally, soldering is not officially required. There is a section where three soldered wires need to come off. It's easiest to clip them as close to the solder joint as possible.
Chapter 1: Tools and preparation
Chapter 2: Mounting the board(s) and connecting power
Chapter 3: Inserting LEDs in the Mini-Saucers
Chapter 4: Installing the mini-saucers back in the game
Chapter 5: Setting up the Hallway LEDs
Chapter 6: Running wiring harnesses under the playfield
Chapter 7: Connecting the Backglass GI
Chapter 8: Testing and jumper settings
Chapter 9: Troubleshooting